#YellowtraceTravels: Copenhagen, Denmark.

You know, I wouldn’t usually bother giving you another travel story from a city we spoke about in depth just 12 months ago, however we are talking about Copenhagen, and for this little gem in Northern Europe that’s close to my heart, a different set of rules apply. For such a pint-sized city, Copenhagen packs a significant punch on the world stage. Not only is it stunningly beautiful with superlative design pedigree most other cities and nations can only dream of, Copenhagen has a uniquely elegant appeal that’s difficult to sum up in words. It’s oh-so incredibly charming and it’s people are beautiful, generous, super easy going, openminded and seriously welcoming (with just enough weirdness and edge sprinkled in to make things interesting and awesome), Copenhagen is one of those cities I could actually see myself living with happiness and ease, and I truly don’t say that about too many places in the world. Perhaps it’s this elusive sense of balance I feel when spending time here that I find so attractive – as Copenhagen seems like the sort of place where nobody seems to be rushing anywhere, but everything still gets done.

One of the things I love the most about Copenhagen is that, for a country so heavily steeped in design tradition, it’s architects and designers (and people in general) don’t prance around taking themselves too seriously. No sir. Which is precisely why they are so awesome. Here, design is a truly authentic extension of people’s everyday lives, and the creative professionals are merely the facilitators of this universal truth.

Polite charm, design and beauty aside, this city also has grit and soul that runs much deeper and beyond the obvious. No, it’s not all rainbows and unicorns in this super pretty place (hallelujah!), although one could easily be excused for thinking so from simply scratching the surface. In addition to the significant multicultural community, the omnipresent sense of Danish tradition (this is a country with a Royal Family after all!) has created a stream of designers, chefs, musicians and various makers in pursuit of challenging the conventional. This has resulted in a string of interesting design and art galleries, experimental restaurants, unique shops and various other cooltown venues. For a little city which one can cycle up and down in less than half an hour in each direction, there is so much to see and experience here, which is why I couldn’t resist sharing this post in addition to what I shared only 12 months ago – as well as the overview we gave from our attendance at the inaugural Rising Architecture Week which took us around many different parts of Copenhagen. I hope you find it informative and useful when planning your next trip.

Related Post: #YellowtraceTravels: Copenhagen, Denmark.

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Copenhagen’s Latin Quarter where we stayed is a vibrant area with many restaurants, bars, coffee houses and interesting small retail dotted around. Cycling through the streets is the perfect way to enjoy the beautiful colourful facades.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Hotel SP34 was once again our base for the week. More images and a review from my stay last year can be seen here.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Nyhavn is a bit of a tragic tourist trap in Copenhagen and for good reason. It’s seriously stunning, particularly just moments after the sun sets.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

The most exquisite and unexpected stairwell leading up to the Muuto store.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

The beautiful Muuto design store in Copenhagen.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Muuto store has a fantastic roof garden with lovely vistas of Copenhagen. Thank you gorgeous Nina for taking us up!
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Casually hanging out at the amazing Atelier September Copenhagen.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Atelier September has been on my radar since that incredible evening spent at The Apartment for Ilse Crawford’s residency last year. It was wonderful to visit their expanded space and see the business doing so well. The coffee was top notch, and service on point with plenty of spunk. Loved it to bits.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Atelier September, Copenhagen.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Design gallery Etage Projects presented the exhibition of design objects that the Danish artist and maverick FOS created for Céline. Etage Projects combined these works with a series of artworks to present a FOS universe that simultaneously broke the rules and united the traditional elements of interior design.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Also at Etage Project: ‘Voie’ light series and ‘Seeing Glass’ mirrors by Sabine Marcelis, Dutch/ New Zealand designer based in Rotterdam.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Etage Projects, Copenhagen.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Next door to Etage is Superobjekt gallery, run by architect Tina Midtgaard who started it as a way to engage with other creatives outside her own profession. The gallery presented the exhibition ‘Realtime’ which invited 7 prominent Danish designers and artists to create a physical comment to what time means to them.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Superobjekt, Copenhagen.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

The magnificent University of Copenhagen’s Botanical Garden (Botanisk Have).
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

It was about 400 degrees Celsius with humidity of 120% in this room. I nearly passed out, but it was totally worth it!
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Still at the Botanical Garden (Botanisk Have). It’s so beautiful – you have to go there if you’re in town.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

This was just too, too exciting! Breakfast and a beautiful morning spent with the gorgeous Stine Gam and Enrico Fratesi of GamFratesi at their incredible home in Copenhagen. I will share more about the visit soon!
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

MINDCRAFT15 Exhibition by GamFratesi at the Danish Design Museum in Copenhagen.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

MINDCRAFT15 Exhibition by GamFratesi, and beautiful courtyard at the Danish Design Museum.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Scenes from Nordhavnen, Northern industrial area of Copenhagen. Note the signature row of windmills in the distance.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Studio David Thulstrup in Nordhavnen, full of seriously clever and super lovely architects and designers. 
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Details from Studio David Thulstrup. Nick and I were generously treated to a lunch with the whole team around this table. So lovely.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Details from Studio David Thulstrup.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Details from Studio David Thulstrup.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Creative mess at Studio David Thulstrup. Extreme love!
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

With Mr Thulstrup himself. He is one crazy talented dude. Stay tuned for a more in-depth article about his work next year!
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

The magnificent Grundtvig Church that made me cry like a little bitch. In case you missed it, see all the amazing photos here.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. See previous posts here and here.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Yayoi Kusama’s retrospective at Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. See the full post here.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Yayoi Kusama’s retrospective at Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. See the full post here.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Yayoi Kusama’s retrospective at Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. See the full post here.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Nikolaj Kunsthal (Nikolaj Contemporary Art Centre) occupies the former St. Nicholas Church, one of the city’s most conspicuous landmarks. It is situated on Højbro Plads a few steps away from Amagertorv and Strøget.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

If nothing else, the views of central Copenhagen rooftops from Nikolaj Kunsthal are amazing!
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Llama Restaurant & Bar Copenhagen.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Llama Restaurant & Bar Copenhagen is a South American restaurant designed by BIG and Kilo Design, who transformed an unused basement space. Brightly-coloured and patterned ceramic tiles line the walls, floor and stairs and the food was pretty yum.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Spisehuset Copenhagen.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Spisehuset is a new Copenhagen restaurant by a talented and passionate young chef located in an old garage in the meatpacking district. The restaurant serves a fixed price 4 course menu that changes daily as the ingredients are sourced from boutique producers, including organic wine and hand-brewed beer. Seriously top notch and reasonably priced. Quite possibly the best meal we had in Copenhagen.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Hay House Copenhagen.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Yours truly browsing through the awesome Hay Mini Market. I still can’t believe I walked away empty handed. And how about that stair on the right?
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Hay House Copenhagen. I know I already shared this with you last time, but it’s kind of unmissable, don’t you think? The view of Strøget and Amagertorv with the iconic Stork Fountain in the middle is the quintessential Copenhagen moment. 
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Stilleben is a completely gorgeous home-wares, art-prints, books and personal items store just off Strøget in Copenhagen.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Upstair at Stilleben Copenhagen.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Royal Smushi Cafe was a tip off from the guys at Studio David Thulstrup. It’s located in an arcade off Amagertorv (the central square in Copenhagen) so it’s easy to miss it, but once you go through the courtyard you will discover a completely bonkers amazing fairytale-like setting that verges on kitsch – “a happy confusion of design and a sense of humour”. Completely un-Danish and brilliant for that reason alone.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Amagertorv in central Copenhagen with the famous Stork Fountain (Storkespringvandet), a present given to Crown Prince Frederik and Crown Princess Louise for their silver wedding anniversary in 1894.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Amagertorv after the rain. On the right, the awesome Mads Nørgaard store is a Copenhagen institution selling great clothes while sporting a bonkers cooltown interior.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

Ok, just one more from Nyhavn. So beautiful at dusk.
Photography © Nick Hughes/ Yellowtrace.

[All images © Nick Hughes / Yellowtrace.]